Cooking with wine is a wonderful way to add acidity, as well as depth and complexity of flavour, to your dishes. You can add wine to many everyday recipes to take them to the next level—it’s not reserved only for dishes where wine is an integral component.
There’s a general rule when it comes to cooking with wine: never cook with a wine you wouldn’t drink. I believe this is generally true; however, it should be taken with a grain of salt (no pun intended). I interpret this to mean that the wine should be good enough to enjoy on its own. That doesn’t mean it needs to be something you’d serve to guests or save for a special occasion, but it should have some quality to it.
You may see “cooking wines” sold near the vinegars, but these are not really appropriate, as they often contain added salt and preservatives that can interfere with your recipe. You want to buy a real bottle of wine. I generally spend around $15 on a bottle for cooking. I keep both white and red wines specifically for this purpose. Remember, you’re rarely using a whole bottle in one recipe, so there will be leftovers. If you’re not planning to use it again within a week or so, make sure it’s something you’d be happy to drink.
So, what kind of wine should you use for cooking? I’ll generalize here to cover what works for most recipes. Typically, you want a wine that is dry (unless the recipe calls for a sweet wine), not overly oaky, and low in tannins. For white wines, you can’t go wrong with Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio. For red wines, Pinot Noir, Grenache, or even Merlot work well. It’s easy to find good-quality options at a reasonable price point – certainly good enough for cooking and finishing the bottle afterward. I always keep Pinot Grigio and Pinot Noir on hand for cooking. If you’re making a dish like chicken or veal Marsala, you’ll want a sweeter wine—and since it’s not something you make often, it’s worth using Marsala.
When cooking with wine, it’s important to use it properly. Typically, you don’t add it at the same time as all the other liquids. Wine should be added first, then reduced in the pan to concentrate the flavours and cook off most of the alcohol. Deglazing with wine ensures that all the flavourful bits left in the pan are incorporated into your sauce. This process is the same whether you’re making coq au vin, boeuf bourguignon, braised short ribs, stew, or even risotto. In risotto, for example, you add the wine to the Arborio rice and reduce it before adding the stock. A red wine reduction is also wonderful on a grilled steak, and a splash of white wine adds depth to creamy pasta sauces.
Cooking with wine is a great way to elevate your meals, so don’t hesitate to try it. You’ll be amazed at the depth of flavour it adds to your dishes – and your family and dinner guests will definitely notice the difference.
By: Stu Charles
WSET Wines & Spirits Level 3, Spanish Wine Scholar, French Wine Scholar, WSET Sake Level 1, Ontario VQA Wine Appellations Level 1, BC Wines of BC Ambassador Level 1, Certified Expert in California Wine Level 2